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Corrections for The Second Viking Knits Collection

Instructions for how to make the lifted increases unfortunately didn't make it into the technical section as intended. To compensate for this, we have made an instruction sheet (pdf, 28 kB) that you can view directly on your screen, or download and print locally (right-click on the link to download, left-click to view on your screen).
A reader for pdf files, should you lack one, is available from:

  
The corrections below apply to the designs Hild, Borghild, Sunilda Child, Ylva, Ymer Baby, Ymer, Ingrid, Hjördis, Estrid and Gyda, and to the abbreviations list on p. 62.

  
Hild, p. 10:
There should have been a note at the top of the instructions saying: Stitches increased for the pattern are not included in the stitch count.

When shaping shoulders, just work stitches as they present themselves; don't start a new set of pattern increases.

There is a typo in the text below the chart - it should say 32 sts increased to 36 (44) sts in pattern.

A clarification; The 4 repeats mentioned after the measurement for armhole refers to the complete pattern section, and should read: 4 repeats from the ribbing!

  
Borghild, p. 18, Fronts and back:
I have missed that the length to armhole should be different for the different sizes, shorter the larger the size. The full length is the same for all sizes.
 
The length to armhole should be: 21¼ (20¾) 20½ (20) in / 54 (53) 52 (51) cm (it is correct for size M).
 
To be able to work the short rows for the back yoke, you need to end at row 43, that is more important than the length.

  
Sunilda child's sweater, p. 26:
Back neck shaping: At neck edge, bind off 2 sts, and then, on the next row starting at the neck edge, bind off remaining sts for shoulder.

  
Ylva shell & jacket, pp. 29 & 31, back:
Neck sts should be bound off

  
Ymer Baby jacket, p. 33:
Back & Fronts: The length to armhole is off for the smallest and largest sizes: It should be 7½ in, 19 cm for the smallest and 9 in / 23 cm for the largest size.

OR...
If you follow the numbers in the actual instructions you will end up with a jacket that is 11½ in / 29 cm and 14½ in /24 cm respectively which shouldn't be a problem.

Also, for some reason, the neck finishing is for a round neck. Here is how it should be:

Right front band: With smaller needles, pick up and knit 98 (108) 118 sts sts along right front edge (pick up 2 sts for every 3 rows). Knit 7 rows and then bind off. Mark spacing for 5 buttons, with the top one just before beginning of neck edge shaping and the lowest just above the lower edge, and the rest spaced evenly between.
Left front band: Work to correspond to right front band but make buttonholes spaced as for buttons on right front band. On row 4 bind off 2 sts for each buttonhole and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the following row. Bind off after completing 7 rows total. Sew ends of band at center back and sew down edges invisibly along back neck.

  
Ymer, p. 36:
I've managed to forget instructions for armhole cable and armhole bands:

Armhole cables:
Shape underarm by binding off 5 (6) 7 (8) sts at each side. For size XL, bind off another 2 sts at each side. Now begin the armhole cable (RS): edge st, k4 (= LC following chart), work until 5 sts remain, k4 (= RC following chart), edge st. Begin working armhole cable on row 3, the same row as cables at center back. On the next row, begin decreasing for armhole (WS): edge st, p4, k2tog, work until 7 sts remain, ssk, p4, edge st. Decrease in the same way on every other row 5 (6) 7 (8) times = 76 (80) (84) 88 sts. Note! At the same time, on the next-to-last or last decrease (row 1 in pattern), work Left motif at beginning of the row and Right motif at the end. Continue the armhole cables as set.

Armhole bands: With smaller needles, pick up and knit 82 (86) 92 (98) sts along armhole edges (pick up 2 sts for every 3 rows). Knit 7 rows and then bind off.

  
Ingrid, p.40, Chart A & B:
The whole center motif on chart A (not the WS decreases on rows 12, 18 and 24) should be moved up 1 row, so that all the cabling is done on the right side.

In chart B, the text in the grey box should be:
Gusset row 47-60, see Chart A

12 sts of gusset decreased to 8 sts

and below that section of the chart: 16 sts decreased to 12

Sorry about that!

If you discovered this too late, and you don't want to rip 14 rows, you could just work rows 55 - 58 twice and then go to 59 and 60. I think that, since the cable crossings are over 2 sts over 2, the gusset will still look fine.

  
Hjördis, p. 42:
Row 0 didn't make it onto the chart. It should be worked as row 1, but with garter sts between the cable parts - that is all the purl sts should be worked as garter sts - knit on both the right side and the wrong side to prevent curling.

P. 44, Left Front:
The final instructions for the necline decreases in the two larger sizes were unfortunately not updated before the book was printed. The instructions should have said:
...at the same time, decreasing at front edge
   Size L: on every other row 5 times and alternately, every other and every 4th row 14 times
   Size XL: on every other row 21 times.

  
Estrid, p. 47:
Yarn requirements for the 2 largest sizes are missing and the whole sequence should read:
6 (7) 8 (9) 10 skeins of Silky Wool

In the chart:
Ignore the dots in the lifted increases. Just do the lifted increases as described in the technical section, but be sure to knit the resulting st on the next row so it becomes part of the reverse stockinette background.

Front:
I've missed adding a stitch after dividing for neck. The text under front should read: Divide work at center, cast on a new stitch at neck edge, and work each side separately...
 

  
Gyda, p. 56:

For the shoulders (back and front), I missed stating that you shape with short rows.

On the front, for shaping the neck: ...bind off 3 sts, then 2 sts twice, and then 1 st 4 times ...


Abbreviations, p. 62:
Sk2p should of course read: slip 1, k2tog, psso.

   I'm sorry!
    Elsebeth Lavold

 


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Copyright © unless otherwise stated
 Elsebeth Lavold, knitwear design & drawings
Anders Rydell, text & photos